Laser Hair Removal

Laser hair removal works by transmitting a beam of laser light into a group of hair follicles in a process called photothermolysis. This beam has enough power to destroy or disable the root of the hair, but it does not harm the skin around it. This is possible because the light targets only the hair. While the root of the hair is destroyed through heat, the surrounding skin is generally cooled with a cooling tip, a gel, or a spray.

The number of treatments required to successfully remove the hair varies from person to person according to the thickness of the hair. Everyone, however, needs at least three treatments in order to obtain good results. Individuals with hormonal imbalances and those who have previously plucked or waxed may require more treatments. For most people, it does not take any more than six treatments.

Distinguishing from Electrolysis

Many people mistakenly believe that laser hair removal is the same as electrolysis, but this is not true. Electrolysis removes hairs one at a time through a process that directs an electric current into the hair follicle, making it capable to destroy large amounts of hair follicles at a time. Laser hair removal, on the other hand, destroys only hair that is actively growing, which accounts for up to 85% of the hair in a person’s body.

Laser hair removal is a much faster process than electrolysis. For example, removing the hair from someone’s back with laser hair removal takes approximately one hour. With electrolysis, on the other hand, it takes about 125 hours. If hair does happen to grow back after laser hair removal, it is typically of a much finer texture than the original hair.

Eligibility for Treatment

In order to target only the hair, the laser beam seeks out melanin, which is a pigment that gives skin and hair its dark color. Therefore, laser hair removal is best performed on individuals with light skin and dark hair. Individuals with gray, red, white, or truly blond hair cannot undergo laser hair removal treatments because the laser light will be attracted to the melanin in the skin rather than to the hair. For these same reasons, individuals with suntans or with dark skin run the risk of discoloration in the area where treatment is carried out.

Individuals who take photosensitive medications or who have taken Accutane in the past 6 months are also ineligible for laser hair removal treatment, as are those who are pregnant.

Types of Lasers and Modifications

There are four primary types of laser lights used for laser hair removal:

Ruby (Brand names: Epilaser and EpiTouch)
Alexandrite (Brand names: Candela GentleLase Plus)
ND, and LP ND Yag (Brand names: Altus Cool Glide and Candela GentleYag)
Diode (Coherent Light Sheer)
While each of these lasers is effective and safe for permanent hair removal, there are factors the doctor can change in order to best suit individual needs. For example, the doctor can change the delay, which is the time between pulses of light. This affects the length of time the skin and the hair follicle are allowed to cool off. Fluence, which is the energy level, can also be changed according to skin type as can the pulse length. Generally, lasers with long pulses are considered to be the safest. The doctor can also alter how the area around the follicle is cooled, whether through a spray, a gel, or a cooled tip against the skin. In addition, the spot size, which affects the penetration and speed of the laser, can also be changed. Ideally, the spot size should reach the hair at the depth where it starts growing.

Advances in laser techniques have also started to make it possible for a broader range of individuals to undergo laser hair removal treatment. Some newer lasers are able to ignore the melanin in the skin. Therefore, patients with lighter hair and/or darker skin can achieve some results with laser hair removal. Nonetheless, the best candidates still remain those with dark hair and light skin.

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